I just noticed that the main page is HUGE. Mostly due to a couple gigantic entries with tons of pictures.
At first I thought my server was slowing down, so I ran a couple timing scripts — main page is served in under a second most of the time.
Then I noticed there are 85 images on the page, totaling 35 MB in size.
Oops. No wonder it was taking forever to load. I need to write some short entries to start bumping older entries to the second page.